Protective hairstyles have long been integral to Black women’s hair care, not only serving as a means of safeguarding hair health but also as a powerful form of personal expression. These styles, deeply rooted in African traditions, have evolved with time, blending culture with creativity. Among the many protective styles that have emerged, Koroba and Kipetaka braids, also known as basket and spiral braids, are making waves as the go-to choice for 2024.
While these styles are familiar to West African communities, they have only recently garnered widespread attention in the U.S. Thanks to the influence of high-profile figures like Amandla Stenberg, who sported a hybrid of these braids at the Acne Studios Spring 2025 runway show, their popularity is growing fast. In this article, hairstylist Helena Koudou and influencer Kayra Theodore share insights into the history of these braids, their rising trend, and tips for trying them yourself.
The Origins of Koroba and Kipetaka Braids
Koroba braids have their roots in Nigeria, specifically within the Yoruba tribe. The name “Koroba” translates to “basket” in Yoruba, and the style traditionally consists of cornrows at the crown of the head, ending in tightly coiled rolls. Historically, these braids were used to indicate social and marital status.
Kipetaka braids, on the other hand, originate from Madagascar, with tribes such as the Betsileo incorporating them into their cultural identity. Unlike Koroba braids, Kipetakas do not necessarily begin at the crown of the head, but their defining feature is the coiled spiral at the ends. While both styles share similar techniques, they each hold distinct cultural significance linked to the tribes they come from.
Why Koroba and Kipetaka Braids Are Gaining Popularity
According to Koudou, the increasing interest in Koroba braids reflects a growing desire among women of color for fresh, creative protective styles. Traditional options like cornrows or box braids, while classic, have been surpassed by a need for something new and versatile. These braids offer a unique look that doubles as a functional style for everyday wear. Additionally, Koudou points out that these braids exemplify the global spread of African culture through hairstyling.
For Kayra Theodore, a model and influencer known for her unique aesthetic, the discovery of these braids on Pinterest was a game-changer. Theodore quickly embraced the style and began wearing it, inspiring others to follow suit. “I had no idea it would spark such a modern-day trend,” Theodore says. “It’s a privilege to share a hairstyle that holds so much cultural and personal meaning.”
Theodore believes her fresh take on these braids, emphasizing individuality and authenticity, resonated with her audience. “Hair is art, and everyone brings their own perspective. That’s what makes it stand out,” she adds.
Installation and Styling: How to Create Koroba and Kipetaka Braids
While traditional Koroba and Kipetaka braids have distinct forms, their modern versions often combine elements from both styles. Koudou, who specializes in creating these looks, begins by cornrowing the hair from the center of the scalp toward the crown. She then adds additional braiding hair to extend the braids, coiling the ends into tight spirals, and securing them with sewing thread. For a touch of elegance, she often adorns the braids with accessories like cowrie shells or gold clips.
Koudou emphasizes collaboration with clients, ensuring that the style suits their preferences and frames their face in a personalized way. “It’s like a team effort to create a work of art,” she says.
Maintenance: Low-Maintenance, Long-Lasting Style
One of the key benefits of Koroba and Kipetaka braids is their low-maintenance nature. Once installed, the braids are secure and unlikely to unravel, making them a practical option for long-lasting protective styling. If a spiral comes undone, a quick fix with a bobby pin or a re-sewing can restore the style.
Koudou notes that these braids typically last for over a month, with minimal need for touch-ups. To keep them looking their best, she recommends tying the hair up with a silk or satin scarf at night. Products like the Muaves Wildflower Honey Satin Hair Wrap or the Blissy Bonnet are excellent choices for preserving the style. For added moisture and shine, oils like the Pattern Jojoba Hair & Scalp Oil Blend can help maintain hydration and prevent frizz.
Koroba and Kipetaka braids are more than just a hairstyle—they are a cultural expression, a celebration of African heritage, and a statement of personal style. Whether you’re looking for a new protective style or simply a fresh look, these braids are poised to be a defining trend for 2024.
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