Box braids have long been a popular and stylish protective hairstyle choice, offering versatility and low maintenance while protecting the natural hair. Extra long box braids, in particular, make a bold fashion statement, but achieving them requires precision, patience, and the right techniques. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk through the step-by-step process of creating flawless extra long box braids from a professional hairstylist’s perspective.
Materials Needed
Hair Extensions: Opt for high-quality synthetic or human hair extensions that match the desired length and texture. For extra long box braids, extensions that are at least 24 to 36 inches long are preferable. Synthetic hair is often more budget-friendly and holds curls well, while human hair offers a more natural look, feel, and can be styled with heat tools if needed. Ensure the hair color closely resembles the client’s natural hair or the intended final look.
Combs: A wide-toothed comb for detangling the natural hair gently and a rat-tail comb for creating precise parts. The wide-toothed comb helps prevent breakage during the prepping stage, and the rat-tail comb’s pointed end is essential for making clean, straight sections for the braids.
Hair clips: These are used to separate and hold different sections of hair out of the way as you work, keeping the process organized and preventing tangling.
Styling gel or edge control: To smooth down the hair at the roots and along the edges, creating a neat appearance and ensuring the braids start off cleanly.
Rubber bands: Small, clear rubber bands are ideal for securing the ends of the braids. They should be tight enough to hold the braid together but not so tight that they cut into the hair or cause discomfort.
Preparing the Natural Hair
Thorough Wash and Conditioning: Begin by washing the client’s natural hair with a moisturizing shampoo. This removes dirt, oil, and product buildup, creating a clean base for the braids. After rinsing, apply a deep conditioner, focusing on the ends where the hair is often drier and more prone to breakage. Leave the conditioner on for the recommended time (usually 15 – 20 minutes), then rinse thoroughly with cool water to seal the cuticles and add shine.
Detangling: While the hair is still damp, use the wide-toothed comb to gently detangle from the ends upwards, working in small sections. This minimizes breakage as wet hair is more fragile. If there are stubborn knots, apply a leave-in conditioner or detangling spray to help ease the process. Once detangled, pat the hair dry with a towel gently, or use a blow dryer on a low, cool setting to speed up drying while maintaining the hair’s integrity.
Sectioning: Using the rat-tail comb, part the hair into small, even sections starting from the nape of the neck. The size of each section will depend on the desired thickness of the box braids. For a more natural, finer look, make the sections about the width of a pencil, while for a chunkier style, sections can be slightly wider. Clip the remaining hair out of the way as you work on each section.
The Braiding Process
Starting the Braid: Take one of the small sections of natural hair and divide it into three equal parts. Hold the left section in the left hand, the right section in the right hand, and the middle section in between the thumb and index finger of either hand. Add a small amount of styling gel to the roots to smooth the hair and make it easier to grip.
Incorporating the Extensions: Take a strand of the hair extension, fold it in half, and place the looped end at the base of the natural hair section where you started the braid. The two loose ends of the extension should be hanging down with the natural hair strands. Now, incorporate the extension into the braid by treating it as part of the hair. Cross the left strand over the middle strand, then bring the right strand over the new middle strand (which was the left strand). As you continue braiding, keep adding small amounts of the extension hair evenly to maintain a consistent thickness throughout the braid.
Maintaining Tension: It’s crucial to maintain an even tension while braiding. Too loose, and the braid will look sloppy and may unravel easily; too tight, and it can cause discomfort and potential damage to the natural hair and scalp. The braid should feel snug but not overly constricting. As you cross each strand, give it a gentle tug to tighten the braid slightly, ensuring the hair lies flat and smooth.
Box Braid Formation: Instead of a traditional three-strand braid that lies flat, box braids have a more squared-off appearance. To achieve this, as you braid, make sure each new strand is added from the outside edges, creating a sort of “box” shape. This gives the braids their signature look and helps them look fuller and more voluminous.
Continuing the Length: Keep braiding, adding the extension hair as needed, until you reach the desired extra long length. This could be anywhere from mid-back to ankle-length, depending on personal preference. As you near the end, taper the braid slightly by reducing the amount of extension hair added to make the tip look more natural and less bulky.
Securing the End: Once you’ve reached the end of the braid, use a small clear rubber band to tightly tie off the end. Trim any excess hair from the rubber band if it’s too long, making sure the end is neat and tidy.
Finishing Touches
Smoothing the Edges: Apply edge control or a light gel along the hairline and around the nape of the neck to smooth down any flyaways and create a polished look. Use a small brush or the edge of a comb to gently press the hair into place, following the natural curve of the head.
Styling and Shaping: Once all the braids are complete, you can style them as desired. You can leave them straight for a sleek look, or use curling rods or flexi-rods to add waves or curls to the ends for a more playful and glamorous effect. If using heat on synthetic extensions, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s temperature guidelines to avoid melting or damaging the hair.
Maintenance Advice: Provide the client with tips on maintaining the box braids. This includes sleeping with a satin or silk scarf or pillowcase to reduce friction and prevent frizz, avoiding excessive pulling or tugging on the braids, and using a light oil or braid spray to keep the hair moisturized. Advise them to return for a touch-up if any braids start to loosen or look untidy over time.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Uneven Thickness: If the braids turn out uneven in thickness, it could be due to inconsistent addition of the extension hair or starting with unequal sections of natural hair. To fix this, practice making even sections at the beginning and be more mindful of adding the extension strands in a uniform manner throughout the braid.
Itchy Scalp: Some clients may experience an itchy scalp during or after getting box braids. This could be from product buildup, dryness, or sensitivity to the hair extensions. Recommend a gentle scalp oil or a braid spray with soothing ingredients like tea tree oil or aloe vera to relieve itchiness. Also, ensure the hair is clean and well-conditioned before braiding to minimize this issue.
Braids Unraveling: Loose braids that unravel easily might be the result of improper tension during braiding or using low-quality rubber bands. Double-check the tension as you work and invest in good-quality, small rubber bands that provide a secure hold without slipping.
Conclusion
Extra long box braids are a work of art that combines creativity, skill, and attention to detail. By following these professional steps, from proper hair preparation to the braiding technique and finishing touches, you can create a stunning and long-lasting hairstyle that your clients will love and flaunt with confidence. With practice and patience, mastering the art of extra long box braids will open up a world of styling possibilities and satisfy the fashion-forward desires of those seeking a bold and beautiful hair transformation. Whether it’s for a special occasion or everyday glamour, these braids are sure to turn heads and make a statement in the world of hair fashion.
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