When it comes to men’s haircuts, the “short back and sides” style is one of the most iconic and versatile looks. It is a timeless choice that works for a wide variety of face shapes and hair types. Whether you’re cutting hair for a client or giving yourself a fresh trim at home, mastering the technique behind this classic haircut is essential for any professional hairstylist.
In this comprehensive guide, we will walk you through the entire process, from preparing your tools to the final finishing touches, ensuring a precise and clean result every time. The goal is to create a well-blended, sharp look where the hair on the sides is kept short and neat, while the top remains longer and styled to perfection.
Preparing Your Tools for the Perfect Cut
Before you begin cutting, it’s crucial to ensure that your tools are in top condition. A clean, sharp set of clippers and scissors will make your job easier and more efficient. Here’s a list of the essential tools you’ll need:
- Hair Clippers: A high-quality clipper with adjustable guards is essential for achieving the desired length on the back and sides. Make sure to choose a clipper that’s both powerful and comfortable in your hand.
- Clipper Guards: These come in various sizes, typically ranging from 1 to 8, with each number corresponding to the length of the hair it leaves behind. For a classic short back and sides, you’ll primarily use shorter guards (around 2–4) for the sides and back, and a longer guard for the top.
- Scissors: You’ll need a good pair of professional haircutting scissors for trimming the top and refining the edges of the cut.
- Razor: A straight razor or detail razor will be useful for cleaning up the hairline, particularly around the ears and neck, for a sharp and clean finish.
- Comb: A fine-toothed comb is essential for parting the hair, as well as for sectioning and blending.
- Spray Bottle: Keep a spray bottle filled with water handy to keep the hair damp as you work. This helps with precision cutting and gives the hair a smoother finish.
- Cape or Towel: Always use a cape or towel to protect the client’s clothes and ensure the hair doesn’t irritate their skin.
- Mirror: A handheld or larger mirror is important for checking your progress, especially for ensuring an even cut.
Once your tools are ready, ensure your workspace is clean and well-lit. If you’re working with a client, make sure they are comfortable, as a relaxed position leads to better results.
How to Master the Art of Cutting Men’s Hair?
Step 1: Consult and Understand the Desired Look
Before you begin cutting, always consult with your client to understand the exact style they want. A “short back and sides” can vary depending on the client’s preference, from very short, almost shaved sides, to longer, tapered sides with more volume on top.
Some important questions to ask:
- How short do you want the back and sides? (Ask about the length in terms of clipper guards, e.g., a 2 or a 3 guard)
- Do you want the sides tapered or blended?
- How long would you like the top? (Will it be a short, textured top or a longer, swept-back style?)
Understanding the client’s preferences before you start cutting ensures that you deliver the perfect style.
Step 2: Section the Hair
Sectioning the hair is crucial for a clean and even cut. Here’s how to do it properly:
- Divide the Top and Sides: Use the comb to create a clean, straight part that runs from one ear to the other, right above the natural occipital bone at the back of the head. This creates a clear distinction between the top and the sides.
- Clip the Top: Use hair clips or elastic bands to hold the hair on top of the head in place, ensuring that it remains separate from the sides and back. This will allow you to work on the back and sides without interfering with the top.
- Section the Sides: Comb through the sides of the hair and create a second horizontal section from ear to ear at the desired length. This will serve as a guideline for cutting the sides.
Now you are ready to start cutting, focusing first on the sides and back before moving to the top.
Step 3: Begin Cutting the Back and Sides
The back and sides are the focal point of the short back and sides haircut. You want to achieve a smooth, even transition from the shorter hair at the bottom to the slightly longer hair on the top.
- Start with the Clipper Guards: Attach the clipper guard that corresponds to the desired length for the back and sides. Typically, a 2 or 3 guard is ideal for short back and sides. Start at the bottom of the neck and work your way upwards, ensuring that you are cutting in small, controlled movements.
- Cut in Natural Growth Patterns: Make sure to follow the natural growth patterns of the hair as you work through the sides. The hair at the back of the head often grows in different directions, so it’s essential to pay attention to how it naturally falls in order to avoid uneven spots.
- Blend the Sides and Back: After you’ve cut the back and sides to the desired length, it’s time to blend the areas where the clipper guard was used. Use a clipper-over-comb technique to gently fade the hair from short to long, ensuring a smooth and gradual transition from the shorter sides to the longer top.
- Focus on the Nape and Ears: For a clean finish, pay attention to the hair around the nape of the neck and around the ears. Use your clipper with a shorter guard or a razor to clean up these areas for a sharp, precise line. You may also choose to use a detail razor to refine the hairline and make it look crisp.
Step 4: Cut the Top to Desired Length
Once the back and sides are completed, it’s time to focus on the top of the head. For this part of the cut, you’ll use scissors to achieve the desired length and texture.
- Section the Top: Release the hair from the clips or bands you used earlier. Comb through the top hair to make sure it’s tangle-free and smooth.
- Trim the Hair: Using your scissors, trim the top hair to the desired length. Work in small, controlled sections, starting from the front and moving backward. If the client prefers a textured look, you can point-cut the ends of the hair to create a layered effect.
- Blend the Top with the Sides: Once the top is at the desired length, you’ll need to ensure that it blends seamlessly with the shorter sides. Use the scissors or a clipper-over-comb technique to lightly blend the hair around the crown, making sure there are no harsh lines between the top and sides.
- Style the Top: After trimming, use a blow dryer and a round brush to style the hair on top. This will give the top volume and texture. Depending on the client’s preference, you can style it in a neat, swept-back look, or create a more textured, messy style.
Step 5: Final Touches
After completing the cut, it’s time to refine the edges and clean up any remaining stray hairs.
- Clean Up the Hairline: Use your razor or trimmer to clean up the hairline around the neck and ears. Make sure the lines are sharp and well-defined for a clean, professional finish.
- Check for Symmetry: Stand back and look at the entire haircut from different angles. Make sure both sides are symmetrical and that the length is even all around. If necessary, make small adjustments to ensure the cut is balanced.
- Apply Product for Styling: Depending on the client’s hair type and preference, apply a light styling product such as a pomade, gel, or styling cream. This will help to set the hairstyle and add texture.
Step 6: Aftercare and Maintenance
A short back and sides haircut is relatively low-maintenance, but it will still require some upkeep. Advise your client on how to maintain their haircut and keep it looking fresh:
- Regular Trims: To maintain the look, the back and sides should be trimmed every 4–6 weeks, depending on how fast the hair grows.
- Hair Care Products: Recommend lightweight, non-greasy hair care products that will add texture and volume without weighing the hair down.
- Sun Protection: As with any short haircut, it’s important to protect the hair from excessive sun exposure. Suggest using a UV-protecting hair product to prevent the hair from becoming dry or damaged.
Conclusion
The short back and sides haircut is a timeless, versatile style that suits a wide variety of face shapes and hair types. By following the steps outlined above, you can create a clean, professional look for your clients, whether they are seeking a sharp, military-inspired style or a more relaxed, textured finish. With the right tools, technique, and attention to detail, you’ll be able to master this classic haircut and deliver a stylish, well-executed result every time.
