Curly hair can be a blessing and a challenge when it comes to styling, especially for men. Whether it’s tight coils or loose waves, cutting curly hair requires a deep understanding of texture, volume, and the individual hair type. For barbers and stylists, learning how to cut men’s curly hair is an essential skill. This guide will walk you through the steps, techniques, and tips necessary to achieve a perfect curly haircut every time.
Understanding Curly Hair: The Foundation of the Cut
Curly hair is not just a style but a texture that behaves differently from straight or wavy hair. Understanding how curls naturally form and how they react to different cuts is crucial in creating a flattering look. Curly hair tends to shrink when it dries, making it important to cut it dry or in its natural state. This helps prevent over-cutting and ensures the curls form correctly.
Different types of curls will behave differently under the scissors. For instance, tightly coiled curls may require more precise cutting techniques to avoid volume loss, while looser curls may require less attention to shrinkage but need more layering to enhance their natural flow.
Mastering the Art of Cutting Men’s Curly Hair
Step 1: Consult the Client and Understand Their Preferences
Before you even touch the scissors, it’s crucial to have a conversation with your client. Understand their personal style, how they usually wear their hair, and what they like or dislike about their curls. Do they prefer their curls defined or relaxed? Are they looking for a more manageable style or something bold and voluminous? Gathering this information will help guide the cut to their desired look.
Step 2: Wash and Condition the Hair
Start by washing the hair to remove any product build-up and prepare it for cutting. Use a sulfate-free shampoo and a moisturizing conditioner to ensure the curls are hydrated. Curly hair tends to be more prone to dryness, so proper hydration will keep the hair in its best shape. After washing, gently towel dry to remove excess moisture.
Step 3: Section the Hair for Precision
Curly hair can be thick and voluminous, so sectioning is crucial for precision. Use clips to divide the hair into manageable sections. Typically, start with the sides, back, and top of the head. Sectioning helps you focus on one part at a time, ensuring that the curls are cut evenly and the shape is symmetrical.
Step 4: Cutting Dry or Damp Curls
When cutting curly hair, it’s essential to work with the hair in its natural state. Some stylists prefer cutting curly hair when it’s dry to see the curl pattern in its final form, while others may choose to cut it damp to prevent frizz. If cutting damp, be sure not to over-wet the hair, as this could affect the curl pattern. Always ensure you are working with the hair’s natural texture, avoiding the temptation to straighten or manipulate the curls too much before cutting.
Step 5: Start with the Sides and Work Your Way Up
Begin by trimming the sides of the hair, using a scissor-over-comb technique. This method allows you to control the length and shape of the curls while maintaining their natural bounce. Work slowly and carefully, ensuring you don’t cut too much at once. Curly hair shrinks, and taking off too much can result in a style that’s shorter than intended once dry.
Step 6: Layer the Hair for Volume and Shape
Layering curly hair is essential to avoid a bulky, unshapely cut. By cutting the curls in layers, you create a more manageable and flattering style. For tighter curls, cutting in vertical sections can help maintain volume and structure, while for looser curls, horizontal sections may give the hair a softer, more relaxed appearance.
As you work through the hair, constantly check for balance. It’s easy to make mistakes when cutting curly hair, especially if the hair shrinks as it dries. Trim a little at a time, and periodically ask the client to check how the length feels, as curly hair can change drastically after drying.
Step 7: Finish the Cut with Detailing
Once the bulk of the hair is cut, focus on detailing the edges. Curly hair can have irregular ends, so use shears to clean up the edges without taking too much length. Pay close attention to the nape of the neck and around the ears, as these areas often need more attention for a crisp, clean look.
Don’t forget to ask the client to move their head around to ensure the cut feels comfortable and balanced from every angle. The final step is to check for any unevenness in the shape and correct it accordingly.
Post-Cut Styling Tips for Curly Hair
Styling Products for Curly Hair
After the cut is finished, styling is the next crucial step. Curly hair thrives on moisture, so it’s important to use the right styling products. A good curl cream or mousse can help define curls, reduce frizz, and enhance volume. Avoid heavy gels or products that can weigh the hair down. Instead, look for lightweight products that provide hold without sacrificing curl definition.
For added texture, consider using a diffuser attachment on a blow dryer. This method dries curls evenly without disrupting their natural shape. It also helps reduce frizz and keeps curls looking defined.
Regular Maintenance of Curly Hair
Curly hair requires regular trims to maintain its shape and health. Typically, clients with curly hair should return for a trim every 6-8 weeks, depending on how fast their hair grows and how much maintenance they prefer. Regular trims help prevent split ends and keep curls looking fresh and defined.
Embrace Natural Texture and Encourage Clients to Do the Same
One of the most important things you can do as a stylist is to encourage your clients to embrace their natural texture. While some men might initially want to straighten their curls, you can help them see the beauty in their natural hair. Curly hair has so much potential for unique and dynamic styles, from classic looks to bold modern cuts.
For inspiration, check out a men hairstyle guide that showcases the versatility of curly haircuts and provides additional ideas for your next session.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Cutting Curly Hair
Cutting Too Much at Once
One of the biggest mistakes stylists make when cutting curly hair is cutting too much off in one go. Curly hair has a tendency to shrink, so cutting too much can leave clients with a much shorter style than they expect. Always cut conservatively and check the curls’ natural length frequently during the process.
Ignoring the Curl Pattern
Every person’s curl pattern is unique. Ignoring this can lead to an uneven or unflattering cut. Pay close attention to the way each curl behaves and adjust your technique accordingly. For example, tighter curls may require more layered cuts, while looser curls might need less layering to avoid bulk.
Not Using the Right Tools
When cutting curly hair, always use sharp, high-quality scissors designed for texturing. Dull scissors can cause uneven cuts and split ends, leading to frizzy, unruly curls. Invest in professional tools to ensure the best results every time.
Conclusion
Cutting men’s curly hair is both an art and a science. It requires a deep understanding of curl patterns, texture, and volume, as well as the ability to tailor each cut to suit the individual client. By following the steps outlined in this guide and practicing your technique, you can master the craft of cutting curly hair and provide your clients with stylish, manageable curls that highlight their natural beauty.
