Invisible locs have surged in popularity this year as one of the hottest hair trends making a comeback. This chic and protective hairstyle is particularly well-suited for the summer months, with many opting for short bobs to beat the heat. However, those who prefer longer styles need not worry—this versatile look can be achieved at various lengths. If you’re new to the concept of invisible locs, you might be wondering what sets them apart from standard faux locs.
Simply put, invisible locs are designed to resemble natural locs by employing a flat twist technique at the root. Unlike standard faux locs, where the hair is crocheted in a way that is clearly visible, the hair used for invisible locs is subtly integrated, making it nearly invisible. “Invisible locs are typically created using Marley or Cuban twist hair, which has a coarser texture to better emulate the natural look of real locs,” explains Jada Pada, a faux loc stylist based in Brooklyn, New York.
In contrast to standard faux locs, which are heavier and place more tension on the hair, invisible locs offer a lighter, less stressful option. Brittany Traore, owner and loc stylist at the African Braiding Center in Washington, D.C., describes them as two ropes intertwined together, whereas standard faux locs are more like a single rope.
Installation Process: What to Expect
Before the installation process begins, your stylist might ask you to arrive with freshly washed hair, free of any products. While some salons offer this service for an additional fee, Pada prefers clients to come prepared. “For this particular style, I recommend that clients come in with clean hair, without oils, as excessive oil can clash with the gel used during the styling process,” she notes.
Once at the salon, the stylist will either create box parts or free parts in your hair. After sectioning the hair, they will begin flat twisting at the roots, applying a conditioning gel as they go. “Sometimes, we add a small extension to the flat twist for better hold,” explains Traore. “Once the twist is completed, we fold it into a barrel shape at the ends and secure it with either a rubber band or by burning the tips.”
After the locs are in place, your stylist may apply mousse or hairspray and have you sit under a dryer for five to ten minutes. The process often concludes with a light application of oil. If properly maintained, invisible locs can last up to two months, though the longevity largely depends on your hair texture. “Looser hair textures might see the style become messy sooner compared to those with kinkier hair,” Pada advises.
The entire installation process can take anywhere from three to five hours, depending on your hair’s thickness and the desired length. To pass the time, it’s a good idea to bring snacks, a book, and a fully charged phone.
Pros and Cons: Is This Style Right for You?
As with any hairstyle, invisible locs come with their own set of advantages and disadvantages. Fortunately, the pros outweigh the cons for most people. One of the key benefits is that the installation and upkeep require minimal product use, reducing the risk of itchiness from buildup. This style is also ideal for those with busy lifestyles who prefer a low-maintenance look.
“Invisible locs are incredibly versatile,” says Pada. “You can add curls for a boho effect or choose different lengths.” However, it’s important to discuss your preferences with your stylist in advance, as some may prefer to stick to shorter styles.
For those considering a transition to natural locs, invisible locs offer a great way to test the waters. “They’re perfect for anyone with a tender scalp, as they don’t pull on the hair,” Pada adds. “These locs have two twists at the top, with the hair added beneath the flat twist, unlike regular faux locs, where wrapping starts at the root—there’s no pulling involved.”
On the downside, Traore points out that invisible locs might not be the best choice for individuals with thinning hair. “Invisible locs already give a ‘scalpy’ appearance because the flat twists sit close to the scalp,” she says. In such cases, regular faux locs might be a better option, provided you’re working with an experienced braider. Additionally, if not sealed correctly, the ends of invisible locs can unravel over time.
Maintaining Invisible Locs: Key Tips
While having a skilled braider is crucial, how you care for your invisible locs afterward is equally important for maintaining their longevity. Pada recommends tying your hair up with a silk scarf and using a silk bonnet to keep the roots flat and neat. If your roots start to puff up, consider visiting your stylist for a touch-up, or you can attempt minor fixes at home.
“Some stylists avoid doing touch-ups to prevent product buildup, but mousse and hairspray can help manage flyaways,” Pada says. Traore also advises against getting your hair wet, as this can rinse out the gel, causing your roots to become frizzy. However, if you’re not satisfied with how your hair looks after a few weeks, it might be time to consider getting the locs redone.
Invisible locs offer a stylish and versatile option for those looking to protect their natural hair while embracing a trendy look. With proper care and maintenance, this hairstyle can last for weeks, making it a worthwhile choice for anyone considering a new protective style.