In the mid-’90s, the world was captivated by Montell Jordan’s “This Is How We Do It” and the cinematic charm of Waiting to Exhale. At that time, countless Black women flocked to theaters to experience the film’s powerful performances, including those by Angela Bassett and Whitney Houston. In the aftermath, many of these same women turned to salons to recreate Houston’s iconic French roll from the movie. Now, nearly three decades later, this classic hairstyle is making a vibrant comeback, especially on TikTok.
The French roll, characterized by its elegant cone-shaped twist and gathered bun, has resurfaced as a trend among younger generations. The style involves rolling the hair into a vertical cone at the back of the head, creating a rose-shaped bun at the crown, and allowing curls to cascade elegantly. This sophisticated look is not only making a statement but also turning heads once more.
Atlanta-based hairstylist Dontay Savoy notes that the French roll has been gradually reappearing over recent years. Prominent figures such as Cardi B, Megan Thee Stallion, and Keke Palmer have recently embraced the style, and Victoria Monet’s appearance at the 2023 Grammy Awards in a French roll has reignited interest in this timeless updo.
Initially, the French roll might seem like a salon-exclusive style, but New York City journalist Mara S. Campo’s DIY video on Instagram, which has amassed 145,000 likes and 2,600 comments, has inspired many to attempt the look at home. “All right, ladies… I guess this is our sign to bring it back,” one enthusiastic commenter shared.
While Houston’s version of the French roll featured loose curls, contemporary renditions often highlight a sleeker finish. For achieving this look, particularly if you have natural curls or kinks, Savoy suggests starting with a thorough wash before straightening. Although Savoy prefers using a pressing comb, a blow dryer and flat iron can also deliver a smooth silk press. Once the hair is straight, section off the front portion for face-framing tendrils.
Savoy’s traditional method for creating a French roll involves using a curling iron and a hair “filler” (historically, a sock or small foam roll) to secure the style—techniques best left to experienced stylists.
Campo’s more accessible DIY approach involves pulling the hair into a low bun and attaching a drawstring ponytail extension upside down, securing it with bobby pins. This creates the upward roll effect. For those with long hair, a simple ponytail secured in an inverted position can also achieve the desired French roll look. Curling the ponytail before pinning it up helps form the rose-shaped bun.
After securing the ponytail or extension, Campo recommends combing the remaining side hair across the extension and pinning it underneath. To finalize the style, twist the top pieces into a bun and use bobby pins to secure them. The leftover front section can be styled in various ways, such as a swooped side bang or soft curls.
To ensure your French roll stays in place, apply a strong-hold hairspray. Campo suggests Fantasia Spritz Mega Hold Spray, while Living Proof No Frizz Smooth Styling Spray is also recommended for managing flyaways and adding a sleek finish. For a final touch of shine, a sheen spray like Luster’s Pink Oil is ideal.
Savoy notes that with proper care, the French roll can last up to two weeks without needing restyling, though sleeping comfortably might require adjustments. “We call it ‘Sleeping Pretty,’” Savoy advises, suggesting side-sleeping or placing hands under the chin to accommodate the vertical structure of the roll.
As this vintage hairstyle continues to gain popularity, the French roll stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of classic beauty trends.