Expert Advice on Caring for Curly and Coily Hair with Braids

by lily

As braids continue to dominate hairstyle trends, particularly for those with curly and coily hair textures, it’s crucial to understand the best practices for preparing, maintaining, and caring for braids. Dr. Oyetewa Oyerinde, assistant professor of dermatology and director of the Skin of Color Clinic at Baylor College of Medicine, offers valuable insights on how to ensure healthy hair while sporting braids.

Preparing Your Hair for Braids

Before installing braids, thorough preparation is essential. Dr. Oyerinde advises washing and deeply conditioning your hair to strengthen and hydrate it. This step is crucial to handle the added tension from braiding. Additionally, detangle your hair completely to prevent knots and tangles during the braiding process. Trimming split ends before braiding helps avoid breakage.

Optimal Duration for Wearing Braids

For maintaining hair health, Dr. Oyerinde recommends keeping braids in for no more than four to six weeks, with eight weeks being the absolute maximum. Prolonged wear can lead to hair loss due to ongoing tension on the roots and potential matting from product buildup. This can result in breakage and challenges during the removal process.

Understanding Tension and Its Effects

Braids that are too tight can cause discomfort and potential damage. Signs of overly tight braids include headaches and visible bumps along the hairline. Dr. Oyerinde highlights that excessive tension can lead to traction alopecia, a form of hair loss caused by persistent pulling on hair follicles. If you experience pain, it’s crucial to communicate with your stylist to adjust or remove the braids.

Caring for Braids

Proper care while wearing braids starts with the initial installation. Ensure that your hair is clean and well-conditioned before braiding. Choosing a stylist who employs a “light hand” is important to minimize discomfort. Knotless braids are preferable as they reduce breakage compared to traditional braids. Synthetic braiding hair can be more damaging than human hair, as its rough texture can lead to dryness and breakage.

While braids are in, moisturize your hair regularly, at least two to three times a week. Use a diluted leave-in conditioner or water-based moisturizer to keep your hair hydrated, focusing on the ends of your natural hair. Seal in the moisture with a light oil, such as jojoba or coconut oil. If using mousse, choose alcohol-free products to avoid drying out your hair.

Washing and Managing Itchy Scalp

Dr. Oyerinde recommends washing your hair every two weeks while in braids using a gentle shampoo or cleansing spray. Rinse sideways to prevent frizz and follow up with a leave-in conditioner, oil, and mousse as needed. For itchy scalps, regular washing is key. Use water-based scalp serums with ingredients like zinc pyrithione or tea tree oil to soothe and manage itching, rather than relying on oils alone.

Post-Braid Care and Detangling

After removing braids, apply a detangling product or oil to the hair to facilitate the removal process. Carefully detangle your hair with your fingers first to address shed hairs and knots. Once detangled, use a wide-tooth comb to gently work through any remaining tangles. Cleanse your hair with a sulfate-free shampoo and follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to restore moisture and elasticity.

Braids and Hair Growth

While braids themselves do not directly enhance hair growth, they can help retain length by reducing breakage and manipulation. The perception of increased hair growth is often due to the visibility of new growth at the roots. Proper care while wearing braids can create an environment conducive to maintaining length and reducing breakage.

Final Thoughts

Regularly inspect your braids for any signs of damage or tension. Address any discomfort promptly to prevent long-term issues. Braids are not recommended for individuals already experiencing hair loss or breakage, as they may exacerbate existing problems. By following these expert tips, you can enjoy the versatility and protection of braids while maintaining healthy, vibrant hair.

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