The Nineties Choppy Bob Is Hairdressing’s Comeback Kid

by lily

Whether you’re looking to upgrade your signature style for autumn or brave a dramatic new cut, the choppy bob is the most effortless way to embrace a shorter hairstyle. Characterised by its various layers and undone texture, the cut can be worn across pretty much every hair type and has iconic celebrity roots throughout modern history (and still now in 2024 – cough, Hailey Bieber).

What Is a Choppy Bob?

A choppy bob is defined by its graduated layers and uneven ends, which create movement and a tousled style. According to Maria Sotiriou, hairstylist and founder of Silke London, “A choppy bob has graduated layers that have been cut in to create uneven ends.” This style allows for maximum customization, whether you prefer a short, jaw-length look or a shoulder-grazing bob.

The choppy bob draws inspiration from both the late 1970s and early 1990s, making it a timeless choice. Iconic figures like Debbie Harry and Winona Ryder popularised this hairstyle, and it continues to grace red carpets today, with celebrities such as Dakota Johnson, Billie Eilish, and Laura Harrier sporting variations of the cut.

How Do You Cut a Choppy Bob?

The beauty of the choppy bob lies in its versatility. You can maintain a shorter length or let it flow to your shoulders, but the chopped finish and layers are essential. “I would always start with a solid base that you can then chop into,” says Katy Grimshaw, founder of Spectrum One Hair Extensions.

When cutting a choppy bob, it’s vital to keep the front slightly longer than the back. Sotiriou explains, “The base should be left heavy and weighted because that is an important element of a bob haircut.” Graduated layering is used, which means that hair is not lifted too high from the base length. Each section is raised incrementally to create graduation, and the ends are then chopped into with the tip of the scissors.

How Do You Style a Choppy Bob?

If you’re short on styling time, the choppy bob is perfect for you. “A chopped bob has plenty of natural movement; to retain it, avoid over-styling,” suggests Sotiriou. One effective method is to dry your hair by tipping your head forward and using a diffuser. This technique will allow the graduated layers to come to life and create volume.

To enhance texture, Grimshaw recommends using a sea salt spray after your hair has dried. “My favourite is O&M’s Surf Bomb as it creates nice lightweight movement,” she says. You can also choose to wear your choppy bob smoother or with soft waves by using hair straighteners for a gentle bend.

How to Blow Dry a Choppy Bob

For the best blow-dry results, start by distributing heat protection throughout your hair, followed by a soft hold mousse. “Use a hairdryer and your hands until it is almost dry. Next, use a round brush to smooth out the ends, flicking them in different directions,” suggests Sotiriou. You can also curl the longest layers around a heatless curler for added waves and shine. Finish with a pea-sized amount of serum to smooth the tips.

If you want to achieve a specific look—be it volume or a rockstar texture—adjust your tools and techniques accordingly. “For volume, blow-dry with a round brush to lift the roots; for texture, rough dry until about 70% dry and let your natural texture do the rest,” Grimshaw advises.

Choppy Bob Inspiration

  • Long Choppy Bob: This textured long bob brushes against your shoulders, ideal for those not quite ready to go for a drastic chop.
  • Short Choppy Bob: A classic chin-length bob, inspired by French styles, with a choppy finish for a super textured look.
  • Curly Choppy Bob: Perfect for those with natural curls, as the cut enhances effortless everyday styling.
  • Wavy Choppy Bob: If you have straight hair, use a curling iron to add waves and boost texture, ensuring plenty of layers.
  • Choppy Bob with Fringe: Pairing a fringe with a choppy bob softens the overall look, avoiding a graphic or blunt appearance.
  • Choppy Bob with Curtain Bangs: Curtain bangs add a natural face-framing effect to your style, keeping the look modern and fresh.
  • Copper Choppy Bob: For auburn inspiration, look no further than Sadie Sink’s retro crop, blending a wolf cut with a bob.
  • Nineties Choppy Bob: Hailey Bieber’s nineties-inspired power bob is a timeless choice, featuring soft, fluffy layers with a glossy finish.

The choppy bob is back and here to stay, making it a versatile and stylish option for anyone looking to embrace shorter hair this season.

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