A new investigation by Consumer Reports has uncovered troubling findings regarding synthetic braiding hair, revealing the presence of carcinogenic substances in all 10 tested brands. This comes on the heels of a class-action lawsuit filed last year against major relaxer brands, including L’Oréal’s Dark & Lovely and Ultra Sheen, which allegedly contributed to nearly 10,000 cancer cases.
The recent study examined synthetic braiding hair from well-known brands like X-Pression Pre-Stretched Braiding Hair and Sassy’s 100% Kanekalon Jumbo Braid. Researchers tested these products for heavy metals and volatile organic compounds (VOCs), substances known to increase cancer risks. Alarmingly, carcinogens were found in every brand tested.
Among the chemicals identified, VOCs were released when the hair was exposed to heat, akin to the boiling water often used during the braiding process. Lead, a potent toxic substance, was detected in 9 out of the 10 brands. Additionally, many consumers reported skin irritation after using these products, possibly linked to the chemical exposure.
James Rogers, PhD, Director and Head of Product Safety Testing at Consumer Reports, emphasized the cultural significance of braids, particularly for Black women, and the limited availability of safe alternatives. “As a father of two Black daughters, I know that braiding is part of the culture, and alternatives to synthetic hair aren’t always accessible or affordable,” Rogers said in a statement.
Despite these concerns, synthetic braiding hair is largely unregulated by the FDA. Oriene Shin, Manager of Safety Advocacy for Consumer Reports, expressed frustration over the lack of action to protect consumers, particularly Black women, who make up the majority of the market for hair extensions. “It’s appalling that toxic chemicals are in these products with so little scrutiny from those who are supposed to protect people,” Shin remarked. “This inaction has failed Black women for too long, and policymakers need to take steps to hold companies accountable.”
The lack of ingredient transparency in many synthetic hair products further compounds the issue, as these products are often worn for extended periods, increasing the risk of chemical exposure. Black consumers account for over 70% of the hair extension market, spending significantly more on hair care than other ethnic groups.
As these findings raise serious health concerns, advocates are calling for greater oversight of personal care products marketed to Black women and for stronger regulations to prevent harmful ingredients from reaching the market.
